Harpers Ferry 2013

June 22, 2013: The last time I was in West Virginia, in 1999, I traveled to Charleston to see British actor John Inman (1935-2007), and while I was there, I saw a few sights in the city: the WV Museum in the Capitol Building and a farmers' market. On a return trip to WV, I visited Harpers Ferry because more than a few people told me that I would find it interesting. The only thing I knew about this town was that in 1859, abolitionist John Brown and others raided the Federal arsenal to obtain more weapons for a slave uprising. Later, their plan failed when the local militia, led by Lt. Col. Robert E. Lee, and his aid, Lt. J.E.B. Stuart, captured Brown and either captured or killed his raiders. Shortly afterward, at Brown's trial, a jury found him guilty, and the judge sentenced Brown to death by hanging. When I arrived at Harpers Ferry National Historic Park (304-535-6298 or www.nps.gov/hafe) and received some literature at the Visitors Center, I learned that there was a lot more history to this town than John Brown's raid. Because of its location where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers meet, the earliest recorded settler in the area, Peter Stephens, started a ferry service in 1733. In 1747, Robert Harper bought out Stephens, improved the ferry service, and started a gristmill on nearby Virginius Island. Otherwise, the area was still remote in 1783, when Thomas Jefferson and his daughter, Patsy, stopped by on their way to Philadelphia; the natural scenery impressed Jefferson. Another person impressed by the area but for a different reason was George Washington. As US President in 1796, he convinced Congress to establish a Federal arsenal there. This also helped to bring in other industries, especially on Virginius Island: iron foundry, flourmill, cotton mill, and others. Of course, where there was industry, other businesses followed: retail stores, taverns, and service businesses as well as churches. In 1803, Meriwether Lewis bought the supplies here that he needed for his transcontinental journey with William Clark. Then, in 1824, a bridge across the Potomac replaced the ferry service. Later, in 1836, the completion of a railroad bridge on the Potomac and the finished toll bridge in 1859, across the Shenandoah, occurred around the time when the town was prosperous. Just before the American Civil War, Harpers Ferry, Virginia, had a population of around 3,000 people. The National Park Service restored the Lower Town section of Harpers Ferry to look similar to circa 1860 as much as they could. Here, I noticed that some buildings recreated 19th-century businesses: several stores and a blacksmith shop as well as other restored buildings that contained small museums. By way of texts, pictures, exhibit items, and videos, these museums covered the history of Harpers Ferry, the American Civil War, African-Americans, and the people who passed through this town or lived there. I also saw the fort that John Brown raided and the views of where the two rivers meet, called The Point. Overall, the restored Lower Town looked impressive, and I do recommend a visit here if you like to see restored towns. (Don't get too nostalgic. Let's not forget that the streets today are cleaner and so is the air.) I also learned that more history occurred in Harpers Ferry after 1860: the American Civil War, the forming of West Virginia in 1863, the establishment of Storer College, the Niagara Movement that later helped form the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP), etc. In addition, this national park included other areas besides the Lower Town: American Civil War battlefields, the ruins of the different industries and Storer College, and interesting views of this hilly countryside. Depending on what you came to see and experience, Harpers Ferry, WV, could take from a few hours of your time to a few days!